How to Set Up an Electric Fence for Predators: Coyotes, Bears & Foxes

A fence that holds cattle will not necessarily hold a coyote. Predators think differently than livestock: they dig, they climb, they test weak points, and many of them are smart enough to learn that a single low wire is just a bump in the road. If predators are costing you livestock, you need a fence designed for them — not a livestock fence with good intentions.

This guide covers the voltage, wire configuration, and setup steps that make an electric fence genuinely predator-proof for coyotes, foxes, and bears.

Why Predator Fencing Is Different

Livestock are trained to respect a fence. Predators are motivated to get past it. That changes the design rules:

• Voltage must be higher. Livestock need about 2,000–4,000 V. Predators, especially thick-furred ones like bears, need 4,000–5,000 V at the fence line.
• More wires, tighter spacing. Coyotes and foxes dig under and squeeze through gaps; bears push over or climb. A predator fence is a dense, tall barrier, not a three-strand boundary.
• The ground system is critical. A weak ground means a weak shock at the far end — and a weak shock is something a coyote will simply accept and push through.

Recommended Voltage and Energizer Size

Measure voltage at the farthest point of the fence, under load — not just at the energizer. If the far end reads below 4,000 V, predators will find the weak spot. For details on keeping voltage up, see our Electric Fence Voltage Guide.

Wire Configuration: Height, Spacing, and Number of Lines

For coyotes and foxes (diggers and squeezers)

Coyotes dig under fences and slip through gaps between wires. Foxes are smaller still. The design rule is: close the bottom, space the middle, keep it tall enough to deter jumping.

• 6 wires minimum, up to 8 for fox-prone areas
• Bottom wire 10–15 cm (4–6 in) above the ground — low enough to block digging and crawling
• Wires spaced 15–20 cm (6–8 in) apart in the lower half
• Top wire at least 1.2 m (4 ft) — coyotes will not jump a hot fence they cannot see over

For bears

Bears are powerful and will test a fence with their chest or push posts over. Bear fencing needs brute force and height:

• Top wire at 1.5 m (5 ft) or higher
• 5–7 wires, spaced so a bear cannot push between without touching two live wires
• Strong corner posts and tight tension — a sagging bear fence is a fallen bear fence
• Consider a visual deterrent: wide polytape or flagging on the top wire so bears can see the barrier before touching it

Grounding: The Half of the Fence Predators Test First

Predators are persistent, and a fence with poor grounding delivers a weak pulse that teaches them nothing. Follow the same rules that apply to any electric fence, but do not cut corners here:

• Use at least 3 ground rods, more for long lines or dry soil
• Place rods within 50 ft (15 m) of the energizer, in the moistest soil available
• Test the ground system — excessive resistance will show up as weak far-end voltage

If you are building a predator fence from scratch, see our complete grounding guide before you start.

Step-by-Step Setup

1. Plan the perimeter. Walk the line; predators use tree lines, creek beds, and fence corners. Keep wires taut around corners with strong corner posts.
2. Install the energizer. Size it for the longest line length and at least 5 joules for bear country. Solar units work well for remote pastures — just confirm winter sun exposure.
3. Drive the ground rods near the energizer before running any wire.
4. String the wires from the bottom up: bottom wire 10–15 cm off the ground, then at 15–20 cm spacing through the middle, top wire at 1.2–1.5 m.
5. Connect and tension. Every wire connects to the energizer's fence terminal (use a lead-out wire and proper connectors). Tension the line so it does not sag.
6. Test at the far end. Voltage should read 4,000 V+ everywhere on the fence. Walk the line and fix any vegetation contact or sagging wire.
7. Maintain the hot zone. Keep grass and brush cleared along the line — vegetation drags voltage down exactly where predators are testing.

Predator-Specific Tricks That Work

• Offset "skirt" wires for diggers. An extra low wire run 30 cm (12 in) outside the main line, close to the ground, stops coyotes from digging straight under.
• Double the top line for bears. Two closely spaced hot wires near the top make bears hit two wires at once — a much stronger lesson than one.
• Keep the fence "talking." A fence that is visibly pulsing (indicator light, occasional hum) deters predators before they touch it. Check the indicator during routine rounds.
• Pair with predator pressure. Coyotes and foxes work at night — walk the fence at dusk and dawn occasionally to check for digging attempts and repair them before they become gaps.

Common Mistakes

• Too few wires. A 3-wire cattle fence is not a predator fence. Under 5 wires, coyotes squeeze through and foxes slip right in.
• Bottom wire too high. Anything above 20 cm off the ground is an invitation to dig.
• Voltage below 4,000 V. Coyotes learn to tolerate weak shocks. Hot is what trains them to stay away.
• Poor grounding. The classic "fence shows voltage but animals ignore it" problem — 9 out of 10 predator fence failures start at the ground.
• Forgetting to test after storms. Wet vegetation and fallen branches can short the line overnight. Re-test after every heavy rain or snow.

Quick Reference

A predator fence is a system: high voltage, dense wires, strong grounding, and regular testing. Build all four correctly and coyotes, foxes, and bears will find easier targets — your livestock will stay where you put them.